How high is high enough? Or, ain't no mountain high enough!

So, we came to the last day in Hawai'i.  A full 3 weeks there, but insufficient time in so many ways.  Of one thing we are greatly pleased:  we never felt compulsion to jam every waking minute with an active experience.  Sometimes sitting and navel-gazing, or head swiveling and taking in the vision, were the best activities because they made the time sloooooooooow way down.

This last day was, as I intimated, the capstone planned by MJ.  A lazy morning with our usual Mountain Thunder Kona Coffee and muffins, and a soft morning by the resort pool listening to the wind and surf and watching the young Japanese tourists at their "sex pray" in the water.  Then.  We took the sunset trip to the top of Mauna Kea.

Our purveyor was Mauna Kea Summit Adventures, and our host was Chris, a young Arizonan who has lived in Hawai'i for a long time.  He has a degree in geology and is an amateur astronomer and ethnologist.  Encyclopedic, to put it gently.

Mauna Kea rises to 13,796 feet.  From its base, considerably below sea level in a basin it has created by its own mass, it is the tallest mountain in the world, thousands of feet taller than Mt. Everest.  It also boasts the clear and unobstructed air required for the world's most sophisticated astronomical observatories, and they are there, staffed by multiple countries and academic institutions.  Mauna Loa, which it abuts, it the worlds largest! mountain.  Both, by the way, are still classified as active volcanoes.  Although Mauna Kea hasn't erupted for several thousand years, Mauna Loa erupted as recently as 1984 and the lava flows threatened to inundate Hilo.

We joined the group at Anaehoomalu (better known now as the Waikoloa Beach resort), took the road up through the town of Waikoloa, turned toward Waimea, and then turned right on the saddle road to Hilo.  From the coast to the saddle between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa, the climb is 6,600 feet, and the road passes from coastal desert through giant lava flows, into increasingly moist and vegetated (but still spooky) country.  We saw wild turkeys, goats, and donkeys.  At the saddle, there is an abrupt turn up the slope of Mauna Kea, at an average grade of 17%.  Rather quickly one passes into clouds and reaches the Mauna Kea Visitor Center (Onizuka Center for International Astronomy) at 9,200+ feet, where changes from clouds to sunshine and back again require only a few seconds.

The Onizuka Visitor Center has picnic areas, lodging for astronomers who work at the top of the mountain, restrooms, and a gift shop.  There is a wonderful video of photography from the observatories.  This has a music soundtrack. But there is no dialogue, which acts to prompt many and various visitors to provide their own.  How does one say STFU in Japanese?  We ate a small meal at the Center whilst adjusting to the higher altitude.  From this point 4WD is required to reach the top, on a partially paved road which sometimes grades in excess of 20%.  The passage is other-planetary, or even like a red-brown moonscape, with lava stretching to the visible horizons and almost no vegetation.  Small and larger cinder cones poke up here and there, breaking up the otherwise fissured, gravelly, and very rough surface.  The road reaches the lower observatories just below the crest, and then loops above to top out just adjacent to the actual highest point.  The various observatories (famous, look them up) study our universe not only by light telescope, but also by infrared, radio, and every other possible spectrum.  During the brief period we were at the top, the temperature was somewhere around 25 degrees F.  One older fellow in our group had difficulty with the altitude and became quite confused, until we got lower.  We witnessed the sunset, and, moments later, a full moonrise from the opposite side.   All the while, from coast to pinnacle, our "naturalists" covered the natural and human histories of Mauna Kea and environs.

Mauna Loa from Mauna Kea

Full moonrise beyond Mauna Kea high point

After sunset, we descended the way we had come.  A little below the peak, on a steep slope above the road, Chris pointed to a sinuous track taking a vertical route down the lava.  A short quiz followed.  What caused it?  Guesses ranged from rockslide to downhill skiing after a recent snowfall.  The answer:  rollover by a Chevy Impala 2 weeks earlier, a 2WD rental vehicle forbidden to be on that road, left in neutral gear by a hypoxic "haole" who made a pit stop on the shoulder.  The car rolled many feet down the mountain and the guy's wife survived because she had the presence of mind to jump out as the car went over the edge of the road.  Hertz could not have been happy, and the guy's wife did not remain silent - I believe we can be sure of this.  BTW, "haole" is Hawai'ian for "dumb ass white guy."

Just below the visitor center we took a side road into a dark field for the "Star Program".  Chris presented an excellent overview of ancient Polynesian celestial navigation.  Two large telescopes were set up, and we reviewed certain prominent stars and constellations.  Among the latter was the Southern Cross, which was rising on the southern horizon and which most of us had never seen.  We then viewed, through the scopes, Jupiter and its moons; Saturn and its rings and moons; two star clusters not visible to the naked eye, the Beehive Cluster and the Queen's Jewels cluster; and the moon, blindingly bright.  (Added by MJ:  Are we the only ones who didn't know that the angle of Polaris above the horizon matches the latitude of the viewer's position?  Duh!  And cool!  No wonder it's useful for navigation.)

Then a slow, soporific ride back down the mountain to our vehicles on the coast, and a very good night's repose.

Next morning, coffee, leisurely trip to Kona International Airport, and the long flight home, ending where we started, at 1:30 am this past Saturday.  And already we are planning the next Hawai'ian adventure.  Can't wait.

You say "Hedonism", I say "sensory life experiences"

Today is our final full day in Hawai'i.

The last four days have been resort-based, and consequently the activities have been mostly "civilized" rather than "rustic".

We have done snorkeling at several Kohala Coast beaches, several rounds of golf, some walking, several restaurants, and several drinks.  The magic is undiminished.  We awaken each morning to a sunny sky, brilliant blue ocean, and wind and surf right outside the door.

For our last night MJ has scheduled a capstone experience, to be detailed in the next post.

Meantime, a few impressions, omitted deliberately from the previous episodes:

The State of Hawai'i, and particularly certain resorts including the Mauna Lani where we are, market very strongly to tourism from Japan.  There are many Japanese travelers here.  When we encounter them we are taken with their consistent smiling demeanors, their obvious entrancement with Hawai'i , their seeming delight in all they find.  Especially prominent are young couples who opt for the "romantic"attractions like surfside individual dining.  There was a wedding right out from our room  yesterday.  Dave overheard one of the staff at the front desk refer to a couple who had registered as "on our Japanese package."  Maybe that's a better deal than mainland Americans get.  We shall research this, and next year perhaps we'll visit as the Henrioru family.

Japanese are evident, but we've met people from many foreign countries in the three weeks we've been here - UK, Australia, France, Russia, Romania, Indonesia (Singapore), China, Canada, Scandinavia, Netherlands, the Caribbean.  (I'm tempted to put the family from Alabama and the family from Detroit in this category but shall refrain).  Some times and some places, mainland Americans are probably outnumbered here.  And a lot of the non-Americans play golf - very well.

Golf.  One last post.  We played with Steve Howland, a sous-chef from the Fairmont Orchid down the road, and a once-aspiring professional and good player.  Mauna Lani South Course, #15, championship tee, 205 yards, 25 mph crosswind, driver, 15 feet from the pin.  BOTH MJ and DAVE PARRED, AGAIN!

Birdie op.  Fail!

The surface of the ocean is an abrupt and powerful water/land interface.  Here only a few species, such as the hono (sea turtle) or the fishing birds, move comfortably between.  We humans can do it but not comfortably.  Any land animal which has never put face into water and looked below has no idea of the teeming (cliche, yes) life below.  Snorkeling (or diving, maybe next time) in the clear cool water here is a must, and we will do it again and again.

The Canoe House Restaurant is in our top one or two ever.  The salads were works of art.  MJ had pork ribs, Dave had monchong.  The wine was Kistler 2010 Le Noisetier chardonnay.  The dessert was skipped.  The table was beachside and special, perhaps because we got the concierge to make our reservation.  The bird was back, and is, we learned, a blue heron (see previous post).  The totality was transplendent .....

Monchong and seaweed

..... except for the woman at the table behind us.  "My audiologist is telling me I need hearing aids right now, but I don't think so, so I've been putting it off."   Lady.  Get the hearing aids.  Please.  Now.

People are so addicted to, have so fetishized, their cells and other devices.  Whether in airport gates, waiting to take off, at the coffee shop, on the lanai, at the pool, on the beach.

Mauna Lani coffee shop this, and every a.m.

I wonder if some would go insane if they were deprived, even momentarily (hence the young woman on both planes who was hiding her laptop from the stew during takeoff, hoping not to have to do without.  Come on, man!)  To me, it's kind of sad to see people sitting right at the surf's edge, staring dully into their phone, hardly bothering to look up.  Oh, maybe to take a picture occasionally.  Then back to the scrolling.  Meanwhile, the Big Island is entertaining/performing it's ass off, right there.

There will be, I hope, a special circle in the lowest part of Hell, for those with mouthpiece, head phones, and laptop who barge into a quiet, reflective group of readers or conversers, and who blast away because the entire universe has been distilled to the small space between their two earpieces, and the rest of us have been, simply, erased from their conscious awarenesses.  And may that Hell also include a rotting option, for the dude doing real estate deals at the Beach Tree Bar, forcing others to move away from him, and prompting apologies from the bar management when the dude left after finishing the last of his calls.

There.  That's that.  Been wanting to do that.  Feels great.

Sitting on the deck, watching the ocean, feeling the breeze, hearing the surf, glancing occasionally at the thong bikinis (where were those when I was 19?).  No, strike that last part.  I just made that up.   Trying to store enough of the complete everything about being in Hawai'i to tap when needed, when sitting on my back patio in Tucson in June.

One last poolside reverie:

Next post:  about tonight.

Mauna Lani, with digressions, regressions, progressions, and perhaps, transgressions

Web Genius MJ has us in bidness again, and Blogger Dave is online:

Also representin' for Dick's PremiumMargarita Mix

Mauna Lani resort is central in the Kohala Coast region, north of Kona, that some have termed the "Megaresort Coast".  There are those, yes, strung at intervals along the shore side of the Queen's Highway.  But the resorts nourish numerous residential areas including not just permanent homes but timeshare and rental properties ranging from reasonable to WTF over the top.  South of us is a lavish, highly "exclusive, elite" development for the nose-in-the-air crowd who wish to avoid contamination by us GUMs (the development is Kūki'o, GUMs are we Great Unwashed Masses).  But, and a huge but it is, public access to any beach, even those within a private development, is protected by law.  One need only inform security persons that one is exercising one's free beach rights, and yield they must.

Mauna Lani is known for its laudable commitment to preserve the area's natural and historic treasures.  Petroglyphs just north are maintained, in part, by ML.  Within the grounds is an extensive network of ancient fishponds, both brackish and freshwater, with lattice-like gates separating them from the surf.  The natural to-and-fro of the ocean refreshes the ponds, as does percolation of fresh water from the lava to the landward (mauka) side.  The ancients were able to maintain permanent settlement in this very dry region using adaptations like these.  Also within the grounds, a short hike away, is a historic park containing lava tubes which were inhabited, along with the walls of habitable surface structures and walking paths used for centuries.   The two golf courses here meander gently through and among these features.

The hazy, humid conditions prevailing since we got to ML have broken, and finally we can see Kohala Volcano to the north.  We could, in fact, see four volcanoes:  Kohala, Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, and Hualalai.

Kohala Volcano from our patio
Last erupted 60,000 years ago.  Whew!

A basic, loosely organized day for us here features early morning coffee shop (Mountain Thunder Kona 100%), beach exploration and snorkeling (drive to some, walk to some), early afternoon golf round, afternoon beach, supper mostly but not solely up the road at Tommy Bahama's (taking advantage of happy hour menu prices), beach hammock with libation for sunset into darkness, and wind-down in the spa with additional libation, typically gin/tonic or single malt.  We haven't drowned at this juncture, so .........

Three beaches visited thus far are Hapuna Beach, Beach 69 (also known as Waialea Beach), and south Mauna Lani beach.  Hapuna Beach is great for swimming and sand frolic, but the reef is limited and quite far out, so snorkeling is better elsewhere.  Beach 69 was recommended by Tom and Christy Pollard, who did it last fall.  Recommendation seconded by almost everyone here.  It's very wooded with large leafy trees, so shade is easy to find.  The reef is big and only a couple of hundred yards offshore.  The water is mostly clear, murky only where freshwater seeps in, and the reef life is active and visible.  The surge, though, is surprisingly forceful, and it's fun to watch the new snorkelers get knocked of their feet, just like we did, trying to put on their fins.

Beach 69 (Waialea Beach)

Beach 69 

Photographer  under the influence of Dick's Mix
Photo posted on FB page for Dick's PremiumMargarita Mix

The south ML beach also has a beautiful reef and is encircled by lava ledges, diminishing the force of the surge coming in.

Dave had trouble with his "max" leaking water under his nose and with lens fogging.  On advice of real snorkeling professionals, he shaved his mustache to a lounge-lizard Gable-esque pattern.
Helps a little, perhaps.  We've tried leaves of the local naupaka plant for fogging, too.

The Mauna Lani South (Francis I'i Brown) Golf Course has one the world's most photogenic holes, the difficult #15.  Early professional Skins events were held on this course, and there is a plaque here commemorating the swag, running to five and six figures, earned on holes like 15.  Testosterone-laden young turks, typically with high handicaps, play from the back tee, a 205 yard carry over the Ili'ilinahaehae Bay, because they by God are good enough to play from there.  So Dave, naturally, played the back tee.  MJ played her appropriate tee.  Let it be said loud and resonantly, audible from the mainland.  BOTH MADE PARS.  (Let it admitted here that Dave needed his driver to make it across).

Tee in little fence across bay,  Dave's actual original ball on the green

Last evening we snagged our favorite hammock.  I must say here that the evening hammock together is just our favorite thing here.  It's quiet except for the surf and birds, perfect temperature, and perfect to lie together and talk about how we've enjoyed the day together, why we're glad we ARE together, and how soon we are going to come back - together.

An "Awe" Moment

There was no sunset moment, but cloud play added magic as the light lessened and the sun backlit them.  On nights the Canoe House Restaurant is open, a few surf lamps turn on and catch the breaking waves.  We've been watching a fishing bird arrive, scout out the best spots, pick out his meal, and then hover and dive into the waves.  Like any patient fisherman, it is motionless for long periods, until the strike.

Technical poltergeists slain! The scroll is found!

Problems with iPad have been diagnosed and treated.  Like any medical intervention, the cost was high and we had to fulfill the entire deductible - a new Apple laptop.  But the scintillating account of an epic journey now resumes.

Friday April 19 was a travel day from Kealakekua to Mauna Lani, north of Kona.  We opted for the higher road, which passes through scenic and residential areas of Holualoa, home of the Donkey Mill Art Center among other places.  One of those places was a B&B recommended by folks we met way back when at Waianuhea.  The owner is a retired bank president who grew up in Tucson.  The house was a Hawai'i residence until he remodeled it as a B&B.  It sits high up the slope of Mauna Loa and has great views to the west of Kona Town and the harbor.  They grow all their own fruits and coffee.  We'll consider it, but I can't really see abdicating from Ka'awa Loa anytime soon.

We detoured on the way up the Queen's Highway to Hualalai Four Seasons, and wended down through the trees and cottages to the famed Beach Tree Bar for lunch.  The beach tree itself survives, but is a gnarled and sad reminder of its prior self, having sustained serious damage in the tsunami of March 2011.  Lunch was hummus and pita for MJ, ceviche for Dave, and the requisite tropical drinks.

Then a walk in the grounds of Four Seasons, a leisurely drive north to Mauna Lani, and check in to the identical suite but higher floor that we enjoyed this time last year (537).

Settled, we walked back up the road to Tommy Bahama's for supper.  This 1.5 mile round trip walk allows for more generous portions, if so inclined.  Back to Mauna Lani again, claiming our beach hammock at the edge of the surf to watch the night fall.

Plenty more of the last 3 days to do.  But now, snorkeling and representin' for Dick's Mix at Beach 69.

Documentation that the best wife in the world planned a great vacation

Absolute gorgeous morning, Kealakekua just north of Captain Cook.

About 10:30 we headed up the road which angles northeast of Kona past Waikoloa. Makalei Golf Club is mauka (up the mountain) from the road. The course climbs on the front nine from 2000 to 3000 feet, and on the back nine descends to the starting point. Probably the most spectacular course, hole in and out, that we've played, even without the immaculate conditioning expected by some tourists. The round included sunshine, heavy rain, fog, and sunshine again. It is famous for its beauty, precipitious terrain, and the many semidomesticated peacocks who live there. And it is a fun road to drive because, even though crowded, it passes from desert lava through woods and on up to rain forest, all the while having a view of the ocean to the west.

Granola bar? You have got to be kidding!

The most interesting sand trap ever

Lord of all he surveys

Prince in waiting

18th tee

Down the mountain, happy hour at Jackie Rey's in Kona, back to Ka'awa Loa for stimulating conversation on the lanai with new friends, sauvignon blanc, Tropical Dreams Chocolate Macadamia Nut ice cream, and the hot tub.
Tomorrow we must leave after breakfast, and head to the Kohala coast, and Mauna Lani.