Mauna Lani, with digressions, regressions, progressions, and perhaps, transgressions

Web Genius MJ has us in bidness again, and Blogger Dave is online:

Also representin' for Dick's PremiumMargarita Mix

Mauna Lani resort is central in the Kohala Coast region, north of Kona, that some have termed the "Megaresort Coast".  There are those, yes, strung at intervals along the shore side of the Queen's Highway.  But the resorts nourish numerous residential areas including not just permanent homes but timeshare and rental properties ranging from reasonable to WTF over the top.  South of us is a lavish, highly "exclusive, elite" development for the nose-in-the-air crowd who wish to avoid contamination by us GUMs (the development is Kūki'o, GUMs are we Great Unwashed Masses).  But, and a huge but it is, public access to any beach, even those within a private development, is protected by law.  One need only inform security persons that one is exercising one's free beach rights, and yield they must.

Mauna Lani is known for its laudable commitment to preserve the area's natural and historic treasures.  Petroglyphs just north are maintained, in part, by ML.  Within the grounds is an extensive network of ancient fishponds, both brackish and freshwater, with lattice-like gates separating them from the surf.  The natural to-and-fro of the ocean refreshes the ponds, as does percolation of fresh water from the lava to the landward (mauka) side.  The ancients were able to maintain permanent settlement in this very dry region using adaptations like these.  Also within the grounds, a short hike away, is a historic park containing lava tubes which were inhabited, along with the walls of habitable surface structures and walking paths used for centuries.   The two golf courses here meander gently through and among these features.

The hazy, humid conditions prevailing since we got to ML have broken, and finally we can see Kohala Volcano to the north.  We could, in fact, see four volcanoes:  Kohala, Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, and Hualalai.

Kohala Volcano from our patio
Last erupted 60,000 years ago.  Whew!

A basic, loosely organized day for us here features early morning coffee shop (Mountain Thunder Kona 100%), beach exploration and snorkeling (drive to some, walk to some), early afternoon golf round, afternoon beach, supper mostly but not solely up the road at Tommy Bahama's (taking advantage of happy hour menu prices), beach hammock with libation for sunset into darkness, and wind-down in the spa with additional libation, typically gin/tonic or single malt.  We haven't drowned at this juncture, so .........

Three beaches visited thus far are Hapuna Beach, Beach 69 (also known as Waialea Beach), and south Mauna Lani beach.  Hapuna Beach is great for swimming and sand frolic, but the reef is limited and quite far out, so snorkeling is better elsewhere.  Beach 69 was recommended by Tom and Christy Pollard, who did it last fall.  Recommendation seconded by almost everyone here.  It's very wooded with large leafy trees, so shade is easy to find.  The reef is big and only a couple of hundred yards offshore.  The water is mostly clear, murky only where freshwater seeps in, and the reef life is active and visible.  The surge, though, is surprisingly forceful, and it's fun to watch the new snorkelers get knocked of their feet, just like we did, trying to put on their fins.

Beach 69 (Waialea Beach)

Beach 69 

Photographer  under the influence of Dick's Mix
Photo posted on FB page for Dick's PremiumMargarita Mix

The south ML beach also has a beautiful reef and is encircled by lava ledges, diminishing the force of the surge coming in.

Dave had trouble with his "max" leaking water under his nose and with lens fogging.  On advice of real snorkeling professionals, he shaved his mustache to a lounge-lizard Gable-esque pattern.
Helps a little, perhaps.  We've tried leaves of the local naupaka plant for fogging, too.

The Mauna Lani South (Francis I'i Brown) Golf Course has one the world's most photogenic holes, the difficult #15.  Early professional Skins events were held on this course, and there is a plaque here commemorating the swag, running to five and six figures, earned on holes like 15.  Testosterone-laden young turks, typically with high handicaps, play from the back tee, a 205 yard carry over the Ili'ilinahaehae Bay, because they by God are good enough to play from there.  So Dave, naturally, played the back tee.  MJ played her appropriate tee.  Let it be said loud and resonantly, audible from the mainland.  BOTH MADE PARS.  (Let it admitted here that Dave needed his driver to make it across).

Tee in little fence across bay,  Dave's actual original ball on the green

Last evening we snagged our favorite hammock.  I must say here that the evening hammock together is just our favorite thing here.  It's quiet except for the surf and birds, perfect temperature, and perfect to lie together and talk about how we've enjoyed the day together, why we're glad we ARE together, and how soon we are going to come back - together.

An "Awe" Moment

There was no sunset moment, but cloud play added magic as the light lessened and the sun backlit them.  On nights the Canoe House Restaurant is open, a few surf lamps turn on and catch the breaking waves.  We've been watching a fishing bird arrive, scout out the best spots, pick out his meal, and then hover and dive into the waves.  Like any patient fisherman, it is motionless for long periods, until the strike.