Tuesday, April 16, 2013

Kealakekua, downtime

Breakfast on the lanai. Waffles, turkey bacon, papaya, tropical juice, coffee. Here there are no sparrows or grackles lurking about to poach from the table. Instead, we have these little fellers. This one systematically cleans the juice glasses left on the lanai, climbing in, scouring, climbing out.

Decided on a down day. The old proverb says, "Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, etc." So we decided to sit on our asses and drink all day. Not really.

We got out some this afternoon and got coffee and homemade pastries at Coffee and Epicurea, in Honaunau. Mainly to gas up the rental car. Then down to Kealakekua Bay, to see what might have changed since last year. The strong-arm nativist guys who extorted vehicles for illegal parking were gone, eased out by the State of Hawaii, who put a moratorium on private kayaking in the bay and forced these guys to move on. Otherwise it looked the same but for a spooky absence of kayakers and other boaters.

We took a closer look at the heiau there. This one was held to be the home of Lono, the god of fertility and sustenance. Captain James Cook was mistaken by some natives for this god when he arrived there in 1779. That didn't last long, and on a return voyage to fix his main mast a few months later he was brained, stabbed, dismembered, and boiled. The monument on the west side of the bay is close to the spot. Earlier, however, one of the crew of the Endeavour died of a stroke, and Cook managed to persuade the Hawaiians to permit an Anglican burial service in the heiau, followed by the man's interment beneath the altar. His bones are there to this day. See photos below.

Then down to Place of Refuge to check out the Two Step Beach for snorkeling tomorrow or the next day maybe.

We had supper at The Strawberry Patch in Kealakekua, a favorite we discovered last year. Now back here to Ka'awa Loa for basking on the lanai and a hot tub soak. Sux.

As I said, slow day.

 

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